Ingredients to avoid in skin care products

The skin is the body’s most significant living organ and our protective barrier to the outside world. What you put on your skin and face affects your health, both inside and out.

Be aware of and minimize or avoid the following ingredients in your skincare products.

Phtalates

Phthalates are a group of synthetically produced compounds often used as plasticizers in various products, including skin care products, nail polish, hairspray, and perfumes.

Phthalates’ primary function is to increase materials’ flexibility and durability, making them popular in the cosmetics industry. They also help fragrances last longer, which can improve a product’s overall user experience.

Several phthalates exist, but those used in cosmetic products, such as dibutyl phthalate (DBP) and diethyl phthalate (DEP), are the most concerning.

Research has linked phthalates to several health problems, especially when it comes to reproductive function. They can disrupt hormone balance, affect fertility in both men and women, and have adverse effects on fetal development.

Pregnant women should be cautious to avoid skin care products that contain phthalates to reduce the risk of any complications.

Mineral oil

Mineral oil is an ingredient in many everyday skin care products, traditional shampoos, and conditioners.

Mineral oil is a byproduct of the petroleum industry known for its moisturizing properties. By forming a barrier on the skin, mineral oil prevents moisture from evaporating, which can have beneficial effects.

The oil adds shine and luster, clogs pores, and disrupts the skin’s balance. The skin can also dry because the oil has no natural moisturizing properties.

Many low-quality skin care products contain mineral oil because of its low cost and temporarily practical moisturizing ability.

Parabens

Parabens are synthetic compounds used as effective preservatives in various skin care products, including creams, lotions, shampoos, and makeup.

They work by preventing the growth of bacteria, mold, and fungi, which extends the shelf life and safety of the product.

Parabens are controversial, and some are suspected of being allergenic, hormone-disrupting, and carcinogenic. The danger is especially acute with prolonged exposure—many researchers and health experts warn that parabens can penetrate the skin and enter the bloodstream, where they can potentially affect the body’s hormonal balance. This can be especially worrisome for women.

In 2004, one study showed that parabens can accumulate in specific tissues and induce breast tumor cell growth (it is unclear whether they have the same effect if used externally in skin cream).

The most common parabens

• Methyl paraben.
• Ethyl paraben.
• Propyl paraben.
• Benzyl paraben.
• Butyl paraben.

Polyethylene glycol, PEG

Polyethylene glycol is a synthetic emulsifier often added as a solvent or thickener.

Petroleum-based polyethylene glycols are frequently used in skin care products as emulsifiers. They help thicken products and improve the consistency and stability of cosmetic formulas. Polyethylene glycols are found in various products, from moisturizers to cleansers and makeup.

PEGs are challenging to break down and oxidize easily. When oxidized, formaldehyde (see below) can be formed, which can, in turn, cause contact allergies and eczema.

Paraffin wax

Paraffin wax is a type of oil produced by distilling large quantities of oil or petroleum. The result is a white, odorless, colorless, hard wax used in many beauty products. Paraffin wax forms a protective film over the surface to which it is applied. It reduces moisture loss and makes the skin softer.

Per- and polyfluorinated alkyl substances, highly fluorinated substances, PFAS

PFAS consists of approximately 15,000 synthetically produced substances with similar properties. They are often called forever chemicals because they never break down in nature.

PFAS substances repel grease, dirt, and water. They are used in frying pans, functional clothing, shoes, furniture fabrics, ski wax, food packaging, fire-fighting foam, impregnation sprays, pesticides, skin care, and beauty products.

Common highly fluorinated substances in cosmetic products

• Polyfluoroalkylphosphates (PAPs).
• Perfluoralkylcarboxylic acid (PFCA).

Micro plastics

Microplastics (plastics smaller than 5 mm in any form) are banned in cosmetics in Sweden. However, they may be found in cosmetic products manufactured in other countries.

Three types of microplastics

• Polyethylene (PE).
• Polymethylmetacrylate (PMMA)
• Polytetrafluoroethylene (PTFE).

Benzalkonium chloride, BAK

Benzalkonium chloride (BAK) is an antibacterial cleaning and preservative. It is added to healthcare products such as eye care solutions, antiseptic sprays, detergents, hair care products, skin care products, and household items. BAK is an established irritant

Ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid, EDTA

EDTA is a common ingredient in skin care and body care products. EDTA helps stabilize, preserve, and improve foaming in cleansers and soaps.

EDTA in skin care also helps break down the skin’s protective barrier. This is done in two ways:

• It makes it easier for products and ingredients to be absorbed and sink in.
• It allows external factors such as UVA/UVB rays and air pollution to attack the skin.

Two primary forms of EDTA, tetrasodium EDTA and disodium EDTA, are commonly used in personal care products.

The use of EDTA in skin care products is controversial—there are indications that it increases the risk of skin irritation and cancer.

EDTA is also used internally as a chelating agent, precipitating metals.

Diethanolamine (DEA), monoethanolamine (MEA), and triethanolamine (TEA)

Ethanolamines are amino alcohols and weak bases. Among other things, they produce salts of long-chain fatty acids, allowing moisturizing products to form foam.

As emulsifiers, these components adjust the pH value to improve stability and form a creamy, thick foam in a product. These ingredients are frequently utilized in moisturizers, sunscreens, foundations, shampoos, cleansers, and conditioners.

There are claims that diethanolamine may be linked to cancer. Animal studies have shown a link between very high levels of diethanolamine (several thousand times higher than what may be used in skin care products) and brain development.

Sulfates: sodium lauryl sulfate (SLS) and sodium laureth sulfate (SLES)

Sulfates are a group of powerful surfactants, cleansers, and foaming agents that effectively remove dirt, oil, and impurities from the skin. Sulfates can be used in various skin care products, including shampoos, soaps, and facial cleansers.

The most well-known and widely used sulfates are sodium lauryl sulfate (SLS) and sodium laureth sulfate (SLES). SLS and SLES are common ingredients in soaps, shampoos, and facial cleansers, among other products.

The dissolving lather cleanses but strips away the skin’s natural oils, essential for skin health. These oils act as a protective barrier and help maintain skin moisture and elasticity.

SLS and SLES can disrupt the skin’s moisture balance. For people with sensitive skin or skin conditions like eczema or rosacea, sulfates can cause inflammation and worsen symptoms.

They can also affect those with oily skin, as the skin often responds to dryness by overproducing oil, which can result in acne and blackheads.

Additionally, sulfates can negatively affect colored hair by causing the color to fade faster and resulting in a dry and lifeless hair texture.

Formaldehyde and formaldehyde releasers

Formaldehyde is a known carcinogen used as a preservative in many skin care products, including shampoos, nail polish, and hair care products. Because of its risks, many manufacturers have started using so-called “formaldehyde releasers.” These substances release small amounts of formaldehyde over time to prevent bacterial growth in the products.

Formaldehyde releasers can be found in various cosmetic products, including hair dyes and treatments. Although the amount of formaldehyde released in the products may be low, prolonged exposure poses a health risk.

Allergic contact dermatitis due to formaldehyde and formaldehyde emitters is quite common. This is especially true for women with chronic hand and facial dermatitis, workers who use cutting oils, hairdressers, and healthcare workers who come into contact with formaldehyde-containing creams or soaps.

Triclosan

Triclosan is an antibacterial agent commonly used in soaps, toothpastes, and other skin care products. Research shows that triclosan may cause more harm than good: use of triclosan is associated with hormone disruption, antibiotic resistance, skin irritation, environmental impacts, potential carcinogenic effects, and disruption of the gut microbiome.

Methylchloroisothiazolinone (MCI) and Methylisothiazolinone (MI)

Methylchloroisothiazolinone and methylisothiazolinone are preservatives that are active against bacteria, yeast, and fungi. They are used in the manufacture of water-based cosmetics and personal hygiene products. These preservatives often cause allergic reactions: redness, itching, or hives on the face or the whole body are common reactions.

Allergia wrote 2017 that “Preservatives in cosmetics and skin care products are behind a large proportion of all contact allergies. Above all, allergies to the preservative methylisothiazolinone (MI) are increasing. Carola Lidén, professor of occupational and environmental dermatology, says we can discuss an epidemic.

Propylene glycol

Propylene glycol is synthetically synthesized from propane, a gas extracted from petroleum. It is a popular emollient and humectant ingredient in many moisturizers and personal care products.

Propylene glycol hydrates the skin, makes it look fresher, and protects and repairs the skin’s outer barrier. However, it can also trigger contact dermatitis, especially in people with sensitive skin. The American Contact Dermatitis Society recognizes it as an allergen.

Synthetic fragrances

The global fragrance and perfume industry is worth over 60 billion USD. Fragrances influence and are often used to make products more attractive.

Synthetic fragrances are often used in skincare products to make them more attractive to consumers. They are usually listed as “parfum” or “fragrance” in the ingredient list.

Synthetic fragrances can contain (and hide) various chemicals, many of which can harm health. It is not uncommon for synthetic fragrances to include hundreds of different chemicals.

Synthetic fragrances can cause allergic reactions, headaches, and asthma attacks. For sensitive individuals, using products with artificial fragrances can lead to skin irritation and discomfort, making it essential to be aware of the ingredients we are exposed to.

NOTE: A fragrance manufacturer is not required by law to disclose the content of the fragrance(s). It is sufficient for the product to list the content as “fragrance”, “aroma”, or similar. This makes it difficult to know what you are applying to your skin.

Synthetic colorings and dyes

The production of synthetic colorings and dyes involves a complex chemical process. It often starts with aromatic hydrocarbons derived from petroleum. These hydrocarbons undergo sulfonation, nitration, or condensation reactions to produce dye molecules.

Synthetic dyes are cost-effective and easy to produce, but there are many questions about their safety and environmental impact.

Possible risks of synthetic colorings and dyes in skincare

• Skin irritation: synthetic dyes can cause redness or sensitivity, especially in sensitive areas like the lips and eyes.
• Heavy metal contamination: Some synthetic dyes can contain traces of heavy metals like lead or arsenic if poorly regulated.
• Environmental impact: The production of synthetic dyes involves petroleum-based chemicals, which contribute to pollution and non-biodegradable waste.
• Health concerns: Excessive use of some dyes has been linked to allergic reactions and, in rare cases, long-term health problems.

Some synthetic colorings and dyes to be aware of

• CI 42090 (FD&C Blue No. 1): Bright blue dye found in eyeshadows and serums.
• CI 45410 (D&C Red No. 27): Vivid reddish-pink dye used in lipstick and blush.
• CI 19140 (FD&C Yellow No. 5): Yellow dye found in foundations and creams.

Others

Ethylene oxide

Anything ending in “eth” indicates that ethylene oxide is required to produce it. Ethylene oxide is a colorless and flammable petrochemical gas with a faintly sweet odor. It is primarily used to create other chemicals, including antifreeze, as a pesticide and sterilizer in smaller quantities.

Ethylene oxide is toxic to humans and is classified as a hazardous air pollutant. Several studies have shown that it increases the risk of several types of cancer. However, whether and how ethylene oxide in the production chain affects a finished hair and skin care product is unclear.

Silicone and siloxane

Silicone and siloxane are two ingredients that have been widely discussed in the last ten years. Silicone is a mixture of organic and inorganic, synthetically produced polymers. Siloxane (polysiloxane) consists of two silicon atoms and one oxygen atom.

• Silicone is a fairly common ingredient in skin care products and cosmetics. Silicone helps the skin retain moisture and “smoothes” the skin, creating a smooth and silky surface. Silicone also makes hair soft, smooth, and shiny.
• Siloxane is a general emollient that improves the texture and feel of the skin. Its oily or rubbery consistency allows it to form a protective layer on the skin, helping keep it soft and smooth. Siloxane also helps to improve the consistency and spreadability of lotions and creams.

Two silicone groups in cosmetics

• Cyclic silicones (round, smaller molecules) are collectively known as cyclomethicone. The cyclic silicones are D4: cyclotetrasiloxane, D5: cyclopentasiloxane, and D6: cyclohexasiloxane.
• Linear silicones (straight, larger molecules) with the collective name dimethicone.

Two questionable cyclic silicones

• D4 (the smallest of the cyclic silicones) was classified as a suspected toxic class 3 and banned in 2014. It is, therefore, no longer used in cosmetic products.
• D5 is suspected of being a harmful substance when inhaled, so it is not allowed to be used in spray form.
• D5 and D6 are strictly regulated in rinse-off products such as shampoos, conditioners, and the like. This is because the negative environmental properties are significantly higher than the positive product properties due to the short contact time before they are rinsed off the body.